The Palermo district of Buenos Aires is easily one of the city’s trendiest neighborhoods. A quick wander around will have you stumbling upon boutique shops, specialty coffeehouses, chic cocktail lounges, and beautiful urban parks. Palermo is also home to many of Buenos Aires’ best restaurants, which is really saying something in a country so devoted to gastronomy.
For many visitors, Buenos Aires is their first stop in Argentina, and doing a food tour specifically in Palermo, even if it’s a self-guided one, should be at the top of your to-do list. In recent years, Palermo’s food scene has undergone a surge, featuring a diverse range of establishments, from traditional parrillas and casual cafés to modern fusion spots and multi-course tasting menus. Here are a few tips to make sure you don’t miss anything, but fair warning: don’t read this if you’re already hungry.
Get Your Bearings First
Palermo is a large district comprising several smaller neighborhoods, including Soho, Hollywood, Viejo, and Chico. Each has a different vibe, and when it comes to the restaurant scene, it’s helpful to know which area matches what you’re looking for. Palermo Soho is home to many trendy cafés, while Palermo Hollywood offers lots of high-end steakhouses and nightlife. Palermo Viejo has many low-key but can’t-miss spots, and you’ll find a more upscale experience at many eateries in Palermo Chico.
Buenos Aires itself is a massive city, so don’t underestimate travel times. While each neighborhood in Palermo is highly walkable and full of tree-lined sidewalks, crossing from one end to the other can take longer than expected, hopping on the bus or taking a quick cab ride might be your best option when moving between neighborhoods. Much of the city is laid out in a grid, but parts can feel maze-like. Identifying major landmarks, such as Plaza Italia, Avenida Juan B. Justo, and Avenida Santa Fe, can help you orient yourself.
Understand the Basics of Argentinian Cuisine
Empanadas, choripan, milanesa, grilled steak, your trip to Buenos Aires will not be complete if you don’t try all of the above, plus a glass of Malbec or Fernet con Coca to pair with them. The cuisine is unique, and Argentinians are unquestionably passionate about it, down to exactly how a steak should be cooked and which homemade chimichurri recipe is best.
It’s also important to note how the meals are eaten. Dinners are served late, sometimes as late as 9 or 10 pm, and you will never be rushed through your meal. Long, leisurely dinners shared with family and friends are a major part of the culture. It might take some getting used to at first, but try to embrace it, you just might end up making it a habit of your own. Last but not least, put Alfajores and Dulce de Leche on your radar. These sweet delicacies are staples, and you’re bound to see them on display in every café and on every dessert menu in the city.
Palermo’s Top Spots
Now that you’ve got the basics down, it’s time to get into the specific restaurants and dishes you should try. While impossible to cover them all, some of Palermo’s most sought-after meals include Fogon Asado which gives a modern spin on the traditional parrilla, Crizia which is famous for its oysters and seafood, Hierro Parrilla, a traditional steakhouse offering many classics like ribeye and provoleta alongside an extensive wine list, and La Cabrera, whose Bife de Chorizo and Tomahawk steal the spotlight. Always make sure to ask your server about any available tasting menus and wine pairings, it’s often the easiest way to sample multiple menu highlights.
That being said, not all of your meals in Palermo need to be super upscale, La Imperfecta is your best bet for homemade empanadas, Ninina is a delicious casual brunch spot, or swing by ORNO Cantina for a laid-back atmosphere and arguably the best pizza in the city.
Don’t Forget to Make Reservations
While in Argentina, you’re bound to experience a relatively laid-back culture. Still, since Palermo is Buenos Aires’ food Mecca, you’ll be duking it out against lots of other foodies for a spot at some of the neighborhood’s top restaurants. For some of the most popular places, it’s recommended to make a reservation at least a week in advance, especially since many restaurants have limited hours and some only have a handful of tables.
But if you haven’t planned and find yourself out of luck for dinner, don’t fret, instead, consider going for lunch. Some popular restaurants also offer daytime service, such as Tomate or El Preferido, and it’s usually much easier to get in the door during the day. And for some foreign travelers, eating a big meal at lunchtime is an easy way to avoid the extremely late dining culture in Argentina, lunch reservations are smart if 11 pm dinners aren’t your style.
Markets, Cafés, and Street Eats
Palermo’s incredible food scene doesn’t end at its sit-down restaurants, some of the neighborhood’s best culinary experiences can be found at its weekend street fairs and local markets. Make sure to stop by Mercado de las Pulgas and Plaza Armenia. This is where you’ll come across choripan hot off the grill, regional empanadas, and other delicacies that locals line up for, like fugazzeta or morcilla.
Coffeeshops like Pochi Café or LUDLOW Coffee House are also great for specialty coffee and medialunas, a sweet mini croissant type pastry that is a breakfast staple in Buenos Aires. And don’t forget about the many neighborhood heladerías. Thanks to the country’s heavy Italian influence, Argentinian gelato is world-class, and an after-dinner walk with the family to get a few scoops is the perfect way to end your evening.
Bottom Line:
Buenos Aires is a massive, diverse city with no shortage of things to do, but one thing is for sure, if you spend a few days in the Palermo neighborhood, you won’t leave hungry. The neighborhood has firmly established itself as a culinary hub where both locals and visitors head for a great meal. It’s the perfect place to experience the Porteño passion for gastronomy firsthand, and it’s a must-visit neighborhood on your next trip to Argentina.